Since I'm all about the travel stories lately (and since it fits the whole "Taste the World" thing), I'm going to continue today with another stop on my roadtrip : Lafayette, Louisiana.
The first night of the trip, I stayed at a friend's house in Shreveport. From that point on, I wasn't sure where I would go, and made sure not to have any real plans or driving directions - just an atlas. So I left his house and headed in the direction of New Orleans. Looking at the map, I saw that Lafayette was in the general area, so I called a woman (who I'll call N) I'd known online/on phone for about 10 years, whom I had never met. I told her the story, said I would be in the area, and she basically screamed that I MUST come see her. So I put my compass at SSE and drove all day.
I got to Lafayette, snagged a cute hotel at the edge of town, and sunk in to my new surroundings. N was busy all night, but suggested I eat at Blue Dog Cafe and take in their small downtown atmosphere. I put on the new shirt I bought in Shreveport, went to the restaurant and sat at the bar by myself, garnering quite a few "wtf" looks. A two-piece live band was draping the air with sad, throaty music, and the smell of southern cooking warmed me and made me smile. I ordered a beer and something else suggested by the barkeep, something I'd not normally order - cajun bass something-or-another. It was delicous - and indeed cajun. Whew! I talked with some locals about what to do and see and found out I needed to visit a tiny cafe, Dwyers, in the morning for their famous sweet potato cakes.
Early the next morning, I did just what I was told. And fell head-over-heels in love. I actually enjoyed it so much, I issued myself another night's stay in Lafayette so I could have them again the next morning.
That afternoon, after browsing through the sidewalk art festival, I met up with N at her house. It was as if we'd known each other as neighbors instead of online buddies. She was just like I imagined and her daughter was just plain adorable. I confessed that I was trying new things on my trip and wanted, at some point, to try some crawfish. She clapped her hands and said she knew where we were going for dinner. I was nervous - but ready for just about anything.
We went to a place called Gator Cove, where they had tanks around the perimeter that you could look into steamy, tiny windows and see the future meals alligators. Goats were running around freely, as well, but I didn't ask about the future of those guys. They were just too cute. I couldn't help but chase them, though - I mean, come on.
After N ordered my meal (and she'll have three pounds of 'bugs and a side of potatoes), I sat watching the other patrons slurp and slop the little things. My stomach was in knots, but I was determined to at the very least, get one in my mouth without hurling. I, much like the tourist I so obviously was, gawked at a large woman sucking out the heads. Seeing my fear, N leaned over and assured me even she didn't do that and I shouldn't either. Thank god for small favors, eh?
Our meal came and everyone's plate looked exactly like the picture I've shown - a big pile of dead sea creature (I see a theme emerging here). I was shown, step-by-step how to hold the head, twist the body, pull the legs off, scrape off the fat, dip it in sauce, and slurp away. I shuddered the whole time, but stuck with it. Once I got it in my mouth, it was like...heaven. Amazing. I had animal juices dripping off my elbows and a pile of death in front of me, but I was grinning and licking my chops like a pro. (And, when I say pro, I mean a pro that still sometimes squealed about having to rip apart an animal in order to eat it.)
After dinner, we sat in her living room and talked until we both almost passed out. We said our goodbyes and hugged like family, and I went back to my hotel and fell into a blissful, food-bloated sleep.
Even with the nightmarish pictures I have in my head, I still sometimes crave a big plate of mudbugs. You just can't get that stuff in Oklahoma. And, I suppose, if I could, Lafayette wouldn't have meant as much to me as it now does. Those were two days of my life I thoroughly enjoy recalling - even the yucky stuff was wonderful.
